Sains Malaysiana 47(5)(2018): 951–959

http://dx.doi.org/10.17576/jsm-2018-4705-10

 

Natural Ingredients in Cosmetics from Malaysian Plants: A Review

(Bahan Semula Jadi dalam Kosmetik daripada Tumbuhan di Malaysia: Suatu Sorotan)

 

HASMIDA MOHD-NASIR1 & SITI HAMIDAH MOHD-SETAPAR1,2,3*

 

1Centre of Lipid Engineering and Applied Research (CLEAR), Ibnu Sina Institute for Scientific and Industrial Research, Universiti Teknologi Malaysia, 81310 UTM Johor Bahru,

Johor Darul Takzim, Malaysia

 

2Faculty of Chemical and Energy Engineering, Universiti Teknologi Malaysia, 81310 UTM Johor Bahru, Johor Darul Takzim, Malaysia

 

3SHE Empire Sdn Bhd, No 44, Jalan Pulai Ria 2, Bandar Baru Kangkar Pulai, 81300 Skudai, Johor Darul Takzim, Malaysia

 

Diserahkan: 11 Julai 2017/Diterima: 28 November 2017

 

ABSTRACT

Consumer consciousness on the concept of natural-based ingredients triggers the natural cosmetics market to grow. The active compounds in natural ingredients offer valuable bioactivities such as antioxidant, photoprotection, anti-aging and anti-inflammatory actions that useful for skincare, hair care and dental care. This review presents an overview on natural ingredient, especially plant-derived, used in cosmetic products and the examples of Malaysian plants used for cosmetic purposes.

 

Keywords: Active compounds; bioactivities; cosmetic; natural ingredient; plant-derived

 

ABSTRAK

Kesedaran pengguna terhadap konsep bahan berasaskan semula jadi mencetuskan perkembangan pasaran kosmetik semula jadi. Sebatian aktif dalam bahan-bahan semula jadi menawarkan bioaktiviti yang berharga seperti antioksidan, perlindungan sinaran, anti-penuaan dan anti-radang yang berguna untuk penjagaan kulit, penjagaan rambut serta penjagaan pergigian. Kertas ini membentangkan gambaran keseluruhan berkenaan bahan-bahan semula jadi, terutamanya daripada tumbuhan, yang digunakan dalam produk kosmetik dan contoh tumbuhan di Malaysia yang digunakan untuk tujuan kosmetik.

 

Kata kunci: Bahan semula jadi; bioaktiviti; janaan tumbuhan; kosmetik; sebatian aktif

RUJUKAN

Abou-Arab, A.A., Abu-Salem, F.M. & Abou-Arab, E.A. 2014. Physico-chemical properties of natural pigments (anthocyanin) extracted from Roselle calyces (Hibiscus subdariffa). Journal of American Science 7(7): 445-456.

Aburjai, T. & Natsheh, F.M. 2003. Plant used in comestics. Phytotherapy Research 17: 987-1000.

Ahmad, H. & Rajagopal, K. 2014. Salvadora persica L. (Meswak) in dental hygiene. The Saudi Journal for Dental Research 5(2): 130-134.

Alleman, I.B. & Baumann, L. 2009. Botanicals in skin care products. International Journal of Dermatology 48: 923-934.

Ali, B., Al-Wabel, N.A., Shams, S., Ahamadm, A., Khan, S.A. & Anwar, F. 2015. Essential oils used in aromatherapy: A systemic review. Asian Pacific Journal of Tropical Biomedicine 5(8): 601-611.

Ammar, N.M., Mohammed, S.H., Doha, A.M., Nabil, E.K., Ahmed, H.A. & Tom, J.M. 2011. Phytochemical and biological studies of butea frondosa Roxb. leaves growing in Egypt. Medical Journal of Islamic World Academy of Sciences 19(4): 173-180.

Antignac, E., Nohynek, G.J., Re, T., Clouzeau, J. & Toutain, H. 2011. Safety of botanical ingredients in personal care products/cosmetics. Food and Chemical Toxicology 49: 324-341.

Anunciato, T.P. & Filho, P.A.d.R. 2011. Carotenoids and polyphenols in nutricosmetics, nutraceuticals, and cosmeceuticals. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 11: 51-54.

Argyropoulou, A., Aligiannis, N., Trougakos, I.P. & Skaltsounis, A.L. 2013. Natural compounds with anti-ageing activity. Natural Product Reports 30: 1412-1437.

Aziz, Z.A.A., Ali, S.A.M., Ahmad, A. & Mohd-Setapar, S.H. 2016. Application of herbal extract and its medicinal value. Der Pharmacia Lettre 8(9): 161-167.

Becker, L.C. 2013. Safety Assessment of Phytosterols as Used in Cosmetics. Washington: Cosmetic Ingredient Review.

Belova, N. & Eilks, I. 2015. Learning with and about advertising in chemistry education with a lesson plan on natural cosmetics-A case study. Chemistry Education Research and Practice 16: 578-588.

Beoy, L.A., Woei, W.J. & Hay, Y.K. 2010. Effects of tocotrienol supplementation on hair growth in human volunteers. Tropical Life Sciences Research 21(2): 91-99.

Bhide, D.R., Karadbhajne, V.Y., Khotpal, R.R. & Kulkarni, A.S. 2013. Fatty acids distribution in lipids of orange and tomato seeds of Vidarbha region (Maharashtra). Journal of Chemical and Pharmaceutical Research 5(4): 13-15.

Bialek, A., Bialek, M., Jelinska, M. & Tokarz, A. 2016. Fatty acid profile of new promising unconventional plant oils for cosmetic use. International Journal of Cosmetic Science 38: 382-388.

Boskabady, M.H., Shafei, M.N., Saberi, Z. & Amini, S. 2011. Pharmacological effects of Rosa damascena. Iranian Journal of Basic Medical Sciences 14(4): 295-307.

Chattuwatthana, T. & Okello, E. 2015. Anti-collagenase, anti-elastase and antioxidant activities of Pueraria candollei var. mirifica root extract and Coccinia grandis fruit juice extract: An in vitro study. European Journal of Medicinal Plants 5(4): 318-327.

Choi, Y.K., Rho, Y.K., Yoo, K.H., Lim, Y.Y., Li, K., Kim, B.J., Seo, S.J., Kim, M.N., Hong, C.K. & Kim, D.S. 2010. Effects of vitamin C vs. multivitamin on melanogenesis: Comparative study in vitro and in vivo. International Journal of Dermatology 49: 218-226.

Chuarienthong, P., Lourith, N. & Leelapornpisid, P. 2010. Clinical efficacy comparison of anti-wrinkle cosmetics containing herbal flavonoids. International Journal of Cosmetic Science 32: 99-106.

Corley, J.W. 2007. Natural and organic: The emerging revolution. In Natural and Organics in Cosmetics: From R and D to the Marketplace, edited by Lawrence, B.M. USA: Allured Publishing Corporation. pp. 55-66.

Costa, I.M. 2015. Phytocosmetics - Where nature meets well-being. International Journal of Phytocosmetics and Natural Ingredients 2(1): 1-3.

DLT Beauty. 2017. The Best Essential Oils for Dry Lips. http:// darklipstips.com/essential-oils-for-dry-lips.html. Accessed on 11 July 2017.

Dorland, W.A.N. 2000. Dorland’s Illustrated Medical Dictionary (29th ed). Philadelphia, PA, USA: W.B. Saunders Company.

Dwivedi, V. & Tripathi, S. 2014. Review study on potential activity of Piper betle. Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry 3(4): 93-98.

Eikani, M.H., Golmohammad, F., Rowshanzamir, S. & Mirza, M. 2005. Recovery of water-soluble constituents of rose oil using simultaneous distillation-extraction. Flavour and Fragrance Journal 20: 555-558.

Emerald, M., Emerald, A., Emerald, L. & Kumar, V. 2016. Perspective of natural products in skincare. Pharmacy & Pharmacology International Journal 4(3): 72.

Fahimdanesh, M. & Bahrami, M.E. 2013. Evaluation of physicochemical properties of Iranian tomato seed oil. Journal of Nutrition & Food Sciences 3(3): 1-4.

FDA/CFSAN. 2002. Is it a Cosmetic, a Drug or Both (or is it Soap?). US: Food and Drug Administration.

Foo-trakul, P. & Watchiradatsatiean, C. 2005. Development of anti-dandruff shampoo from kaffir lime which is the by-product of food industry. Kasetsart Journal (Natural Science) 39: 725-729.

Fowler Jr., J.F., Woolery-Lloyd, H., Waldorf, H. & Saini, R. 2010. Innovations in natural ingredients and their use in skin care. Journal of Drugs and Dermatology 9(6): 72-81.

Global Market Insights Inc. 2016. Organic Cosmetic Ingredients Market Size, Industry Analysis Report, Regional Outlook (U.S., Germany, UK, Italy, Russia, China, India, Japan, South Korea, Brazil, Mexico, Saudi Arabia, UAE, South Africa), Application Development Potential, Price Trend, Competitive Market Share & Forecast, 2016 - 2023. https:// www.gminsights.com/industry-analysis/organic-cosmetic-ingredients-market. Accessed on 8 March 2017.

González-Mu˜noz, P., Conde-Salazar, L. & Va˜nó-Galván, S. 2014. Allergic contact dermatitis caused by cosmetic products. Actas Dermosifiliograficas 105(9): 822-832.

Grand View Research, Inc. 2016. Organic Personal Care Market Size to Reach USD25.1 Billion by 2025. http:// www.grandviewresearch.com/press-release/global-organic-personal-care-market. Accessed on 7 March 2017.

Hassanien, M.M.M., Abdel-Razek, A.G., Rudzińska, M., Siger, A., Ratusz, K. & Przybylski, R. 2014. Phytochemical contents and oxidative stability of oils from non-traditional sources. European Journal of Lipid Science and Technology 116: 1563-1571.

History of Cosmetics. 2017. Timeline of Cosmetics. www. historyofcosmetics.net/cosmetic-history/ Accessed on 14 March 2017.

Ionescu (Bordei), N., Ivopol, G.C., Neagu, M., Popescu, M. & Meghea, A. 2015. Fatty acids and antioxidant activity in vegetable oils used in cosmetic formulations. UPB Science Bulletin Series B 77(3): 39-48.

Javed, S. & Atta-ur-Rahman. 2014. Aloe vera gel in food, health products, and cosmetics industry. In Studies in Natural Products Chemistry, Vol. 41, edited by Atta-ur-Rahman, Oxford, UK: Elsevier B.V. pp. 261-285.

Joshi, L.S. & Pawar, H.A. 2015. Herbal cosmetics and cosmeceuticals: An overview. Natural Products Chemistry & Research 3(170): 1-8.

Jung, J.Y., Kwon, H.H., Hong, J.S., Yoon, J.Y., Park, M.S., Jang, M.Y. & Suh, D.H. 2014. Effect of dietary supplementation with omega-3 fatty acid and gamma-linolenic acid on acne vulgaris: A randomised, doubleblind, controlled trial. Acta Dermato-Venereologica 94: 521-525.

Kadam Vaishali, S., Chintale Ashwini, G., Deshmukh Kshitija, P. & Nalwad Digambar, N. 2013. Cosmeceuticals an emerging concept: A comprehensive review. International Journal of Research in Pharmacy and Chemistry 3(2): 308-316.

Kamakshi, R. 2012. Fairness via formulations: A review of cosmetic skin-lightening ingredients. Journal of Cosmetic Science 63: 43-54.

Kasuan, N., Muhammad, Z., Yusof, Z., Rahiman, M.H.F., Taib, M.N. & Haiyee, Z.A. 2013. Extraction of Citrus hystrix D.C. (kaffir lime) essential oil using automated steam distillation process: Analysis of volatiole compounds. Malaysian Journal of Analytical Sciences 17(3): 359-369.

Kim, M.J., Doh, H.J., Choi, M.K., Chung, S.J., Shim, C.K., Kim, D.D., Kim, J.S., Yong, C.S. & Choi, H.G. 2008. Skin permeation enhancement of diclofenac by fatty acids. Drug Delivery 15(6): 373-379.

Kong, R., Cui, Y., Fisher, G.J., Wang, X., Chen, Y., Schneider, L.M. & Majmudar, G. 2016. A comparative study of the effects of retinol and retinoic acid on histological, molecular, and clinical properties of human skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 15: 49-57.

Kumar, D., Rajora, G., Parkash, O., Himanshu, Antil, M. & Kumar, V. 2016. Herbal cosmetics - A review. International Journal of Advanced Scientific Research 1(4): 36-41.

Kusumawati, I. & Indrayanto, G. 2013. Chapter 15: Natural antioxidants in cosmetics. In Studies in Natural Products Chemistry (Vol 40), edited by Atta-ur-Rahman, F.R.S. Oxford, UK: Elsevier B.V. pp. 485-595.

Lambert, T. 2017. A Timeline of Cosmetics and Make Up. www. localhistories.org/cosmeticstime.html. Accessed on 14 March 2017.

Le Floc'h, C., Cheniti, A., Connétable, S., Piccardi, N., Vincenzi, C. & Tosti, A. 2015. Effect of a nutritional supplement on hair loss in women. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 14: 76-82.

Lee, N-Y., Wong, L.P., Siti Hamidah M-S., Zuhaili, I., Mohd Azizi C.Y. & Ida-Idayu, M. 2014. Application of rubber (Hevea brasiliensis) seeds oil extracted using supercritical carbon dioxide in cosmetics. Jurnal Teknologi 69(4): 55-59.

Ma, Y., Ma, J., Yang, T., Cheng, W., Lu, Y., Cao, Y., Wang, J. & Feng, S. 2014. Componets, antioxidant and antibacterial activity of tomato seed oil. Food Science and Technology Research 20(1): 1-6.

Martorana, M., Arcoraci, T. & Rizza, L. 2013. In vitro antioxidant and in vivo photoprotective effect of pistachio (Pistacia vera L., variety Bronte) seed and skin extracts. Fitoterapia 85: 41-48.

Masri, R., Ismail, R. & Ahmad, S. 2002. Palm-based cosmetic products with roselle extract. MPOB Information Series. pp. 156-160.

Matthews, I. 2007. Naturals hit mainstream. In Natural and Organics in Cosmetics: From R and D to the Marketplace, edited by Lawrence, B.M. USA: Allured Publishing Corporation. pp. 17-20.

Owh, C., Chee, P.L. & Loh, X.J. 2016. A global analysis of the personal care market. In Polymers in Personal Care Products and Cosmetics, edited by Loh, X.J. London: Royal Society of Chemistry.

Palombo, P., Fabrizi, G., Ruocco, V., Ruoccom, E., Fluhr, J., Roberts, R. & Morganti, P. 2007. Beneficial long-term effects of combined oral/topical antioxidant treatment with the carotenoids lutein and zeaxanthin on human skin: A double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Skin Pharmacology and Physiology 20: 199-210.

Pandel, R., Poljŝak, B., Godic, A. & Dahmane, R. 2013. Skin photoaging and the role of antioxidants in its prevention. ISRN Dermatology 2013: 1-11.

Peng, W.L., Khanafi, M.A., Setapar, S.H.M., Idham, Z., Yunus, M.A.C. & Abbas, M.Z.A. 2014. Development of emulsification containing natural colorant from local plant (Roselle). Jurnal Teknologi (Sciences & ngineering) 69(4): 15-17.

Personal Care Products Council. 2016. A History of Cosmetics from Ancient Times. www.cosmeticinfo.org . Accessed on 14 March 2017.

Prapun, R., Cheetangdee, N. & Udomrati, S. 2016. Characterization of virgin coconut oil (VCO) recovered by different techniques and fruit maturities. International Food Research Journal 23(5): 2117-2124.

Puglia, C. & Bonina, F. 2008. In vivo spectrophotometric evaluation of skin barrier recovery after topical application of soybean phytosterols. Journal of Cosmetic Science 59: 217-224.

Quirin, K.W. 2011. Phytosterol-rich extracts and anti-aging benefits. Euro Cosmetics 19: 16-18.

Rele, A.S. & Mohile, R.B. 2003. Effect of mineral oil, sunflower oil, and coconut oil on prevention of hair damage. Journal of Cosmetic Science 54: 175-192.

Ruszova, E., Cheel, J. & Pavek, S. 2013. Epilobium angustifolium extract demonstrates multiple effects on dermal fibroblasts in vitro and skin photo-protection in vivo. General Physiology and Biophysics 32: 347-359.

Saba. 2016. 15 Best Benefits and Uses of Beta Carotene for Skin, Hair and Health. http://www.stylecraze.com/ Accessed on 15 March 2017.

Sato, K. & Toriyama, M. 2009. Depigmenting effect of catechins. Molecules 14: 4425-4432.

Scarmo, S., Cartmel, B., Lin, H., Leffell, D.J., Welch, E., Bhosale, P., Bernstein, P.S. & Mayne, S.T. 2010. Significant correlations of dermal total carotenoids and dermal lycopene with their respective plasma levels in healthy adults. Archives of Biochemistry and Biophysics 504(1): 34-39.

Sevin, A., Oztas, P. & Senen, D. 2007. Effects of polyphenols on skin damage due to ultraviolet A rays: An experimental study on rats. Journal of European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology 21: 650-656.

Shafiei, Z., Shuhairi, N.N., Yap, N.M.F.S., Sibungkil, C.A.H. & Latip, J. 2012. Antibacterial activity of Myristica fragrans against oral pathogens. Evidence-Based Complementary and Alternative Medicine 2012: Article ID 825362.

Shinkafi, S.A. & Ndanusa, H. 2013. Antibacterial activity of Citrus limon on Acnevulgaris (pimples). International Journal of Science Inventions Today 2(5): 397-409.

Singh, D.K., Luqman, S. & Mathur, A.K. 2015. Lawsonia inermis L. - A commercially important primaeval dying and medicinal plant with diverse pharmacological activity: A review. Industrial Crops and Products 65: 269-286.

Soto, M.L., Falqué, E. & Domínguez, H. 2015. Relevance of natural phenolics from grape and derivative products in formulation of cosmetics. Cosmetics 2: 259-276.

Soukoulis, S. & Hirsch, R. 2004. The effects of a tea tree oil-containing gel on plaque and chronic gingivitis. Australian Dental Journal 49(2): 78-83.

Sun, Y., Lin, Y., Cao, X., Xiang, L. & Qi, J. 2014. Sterols from Mytilidae show anti-aging and neuroprotective effects via anti-oxidative activity. International Journal of Molecular Sciences 15: 21660-21673.

Srivastava, V., Dubey, S. & Mishra, A. 2013. A review on lemon grass: Agricultural and medicinal aspect. International Research Journal of Pharmacy 4(8): 42-44.

Telang, P.S. 2013. Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatology Online Journal 4(2): 143-146.

Teo, W.L., Gan, E., Jinghan, A., Chuah, S.Y. & Alain, K. 2015. Double blind placebo controlled trial to evaluate of the effectiveness of a dietary supplement rich in carotenoids as adjunct to topical lightening cream for the treatment of melasma: A pilot study. Pigmentary Disorders 2(164): 1-6.

Thornfeldt, C. 2005. Cosmeceuticals containing herbs: Fact, fiction, and future. Dermatologic Surgery 31(7 Pt 2): 873880.

Uchida, R., Ishikawa, S. & Tomoda, H. 2014. Inhibition of tyrosinase activity and melanine pigmentation by 2-hydroxytyrosol. Acta Pharmaceutica Sinica B 4(2): 141- 145.

Vermerris, W. & Nicholson, R. 2006. Phenolic Compounds Biochemistry. Dordrecht, Netherlands: Springer.

Yogiraj, V., Goyal, P.K., Chauhan, C.S., Goyal, A. & Vyas, B. 2014. Carica papaya Linn: An overview. International Journal of Herbal Medicine 2(5): 01-08.

Zillich, O.V., Schweiggert-Weisz, U., Eismer, P. & Kerscher, M. 2015. Polyphenols as active ingredients for cosmetic products. International Journal of Cosmetic Science 37: 455-464.

 

 

*Pengarang untuk surat-menyurat; email: sitihamidah@cheme.utm.my

 

 

sebelumnya